In this exclusive interview originally featured in Gazet van Antwerpen, we go behind the scenes with Labellov, Antwerp’s leading luxury resale boutique specializing in pre-owned designer handbags. For 14 years, founder Birgit De Jager and her team have expertly curated a collection of high-end bags, from Chanel to Hermès, while ensuring authenticity through rigorous training and quality checks. Here, De Jager shares insights into the meticulous process of spotting counterfeits, the value of timeless pieces, and the booming demand for second-hand luxury.
Labellov has been selling second-hand designer bags for 14 years: "A Hermès Birkin Bag appreciates more than gold."
A million euros' worth of second-hand handbags. That’s the loss after a break-in at a luxury store in Knokke, according to the owner. Among the stolen items was a mini Hermès Kelly, valued at around €23,000. However, such thefts are not a concern at Labellov, a leading Antwerp-based luxury resale shop that's been in the business for 14 years. "We sell multiple Birkins and Kellys, but you won’t find them on display in the store."
Fourteen years ago, De Jager started an online shop, selling designer bags on behalf of others for a commission. Today, Labellov has two physical stores, a team of ten, and 100,000 monthly website visitors. Her concept proved brilliant; the second-hand luxury market has grown rapidly since 2010 and is expected to continue booming, according to experts. “Everyone now realizes just how much money is ‘sleeping’ in their closets,” says De Jager. “Not only in closets, but also in attics and basements.”
"The resale market is expected to outpace retail by 2026," De Jager adds. “Second-hand is becoming more popular than new, and not just in fashion. You can now find pre-owned electronics on Vinted.” A preloved designer bag is more sustainable and slightly more affordable than a new one—and in some cases, it’s even a great investment. “A Hermès Birkin Bag appreciates more than gold. Its value increases every year, and it often resells for more than the retail price. Hermès has made it such an exclusive, hard-to-find item that people are willing to pay a premium.” Labellov currently has 27 Birkin Bags listed on its website, with prices ranging from €9,850 to €69,500.
A €200,000 bag
“The most expensive bag I ever sold was a Himalaya Birkin,” De Jager says, describing the white-gray crocodile leather masterpiece. “A buyer from Hong Kong paid me €200,000 for it and aimed to sell it for even more.” You won’t find a Birkin or a Kelly—another iconic Hermès model—or even high-end Chanel bags on display at the store in Verlatstraat. “We don’t display bags over €5,000 for security reasons. The sellers keep them until they’re sold. Potential buyers can book an appointment to view a bag, at which point the owner brings it to the store, but there are never more than two high-value bags there at any one time.”
Most bags in Labellov’s selection are available for viewing in-store. Sellers can send them in for free, have them picked up, or drop them off at one of Labellov’s pop-up events. “Together, we set a sale price, based on the bag’s condition, age, and popularity. Chanel’s Flap Bag, for example, is a timeless bestseller with constant demand. Trends also play a role. Fendi’s Baguette is currently popular again because the brand recently re-released it, which has driven up its resale value.”
Building trust
Labellov sells bags on consignment, displaying them on its website while they remain the property of the seller until sold. The store takes a commission from the sale price. “For items under €300, sellers receive 50%; for sales between €300 and €2,000, they receive 60%; and for anything over €2,000, it’s 70%.” For items over €10,000, the commission is agreed upon individually. Sellers pay a considerable fee, but they gain significant peace of mind in return. “People trust us. They know we’re thorough with authentication.”
Spotting Counterfeits
The Labellov team is trained to identify counterfeit items. They regularly attend refresher courses and maintain a comprehensive database of photos and reference details to consult. Birgit herself specializes in authenticating Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags. "Some fake bags are extremely well-crafted," she explains. "The differences lie in the stitching, the leather, the printed letters, and the logo. If we have even the slightest doubt, we won’t accept a bag." She recalls a time when a customer returned, upset, with a letter from Hermès confirming her bag was indeed genuine. “For higher-end bags, we consult an expert in Paris if necessary.”
Read the full article here.
Original text by Eline Debie.